The global denim industry, expected to surpass USD 115 billion by 2029, still relies heavily on conventionally grown cotton. While cotton is valued for softness and affordability, its cultivation consumes vast amounts of water and pesticides. These practices raise concerns about the fibre’s long-term sustainability. Hemp, by contrast, offers a more climate-resilient alternative that requires fewer resources and can improve soil health. Despite these advantages, hemp adoption in denim has remained low due to challenges with texture, comfort, and consumer appeal.

A Project to Break Barriers

Fashion for Good, together with brands such as BESTSELLER, C&A, Reformation, PDS Limited, and Target, has launched Beyond50 Denim: Combining Cottonised Hemp and Green Chemistry. Fibre innovators SEFF and FIBRE52 are part of the collaboration, along with manufacturers Bossa in Turkey and Nice Denim in Bangladesh. The project aims to push hemp content in denim blends beyond the usual 20 per cent, reaching 50 per cent or more without compromising softness, durability, or performance. This approach could set a new benchmark for sustainable and circular textiles.

Innovation at the Core

Two technologies drive this effort. SEFF’s Nano-Pulse process transforms raw hemp into cotton-like fibres that spin and weave with greater ease. FIBRE52 adds a chemistry treatment that creates a softer handfeel for cellulosic fibres while keeping environmental impact low. Together, these innovations show that material science and green chemistry can work in synergy to overcome long-standing barriers to hemp use in denim.

Opportunities Beyond Fashion

While denim is the immediate focus, these developments have potential for many other sectors. Cottonised hemp fibres with improved performance could support sustainable product design, interior textiles, and automotive upholstery. Designers across industries are increasingly searching for materials that combine durability, comfort, and a lower environmental footprint. Hemp could meet these needs while offering a renewable, biobased alternative to resource-intensive cotton.

A Collaborative Step Forward

Katrin Ley, Managing Director at Fashion for Good, explains that hemp’s limited use in denim shows how industry habits can block transformative solutions. Beyond50 Denim demonstrates that collaboration and combined innovations are key to change. If successful, the initiative could speed up the shift from conventional cotton towards biobased alternatives, opening new opportunities for designers to integrate sustainable materials into their projects.

Source & photo: Fashion for Good