A team of researchers at the University of Colorado Boulder has developed an innovative, biobased alternative to conventional artificial nails — and it might just inspire product and fashion designers to rethink the materials behind personal expression. Dubbed Bio-e-Nails, these colourful, reusable press-on nails are biodegradable, customisable, and remouldable, designed with both aesthetics and circularity in mind.

The project, led by designer and ATLAS Institute researcher Laura Vasquez, was presented at the 2024 Tangible, Embedded and Embodied Interaction (TEI) Conference in France. It forms part of a broader initiative to design materials that can be reprogrammed, reused, and reshaped across multiple life cycles — a vision that aligns closely with emerging material trends in sustainable design.

Designed for Circularity
Unlike traditional acrylic nails, which are petroleum-based and non-recyclable, Bio-e-Nails are designed to stay in circulation. After use, they can be ground down, remelted, and reshaped into entirely new designs. This approach mirrors circular economy principles increasingly applied in the design of fashion accessories, packaging, and product casings — turning even cosmetic objects into platforms for sustainable experimentation.

The project takes a hands-on, maker-friendly approach. Designers and users alike can personalise the materials by embedding pigments, glitters, scents, or digital elements, turning each set of nails into a unique creation. This open-ended process enables mass customisation, while reinforcing a material culture based on reuse rather than disposal.

What They’re Made From
Bio-e-Nails are made using one of two powder-based, biobased ingredients, namely agar, a plant-based polysaccharide derived from algae, commonly used as a vegan substitute for gelatin, and chitosan, a substance obtained from seashells and other animal by-products, often used as a health supplement.

To make nails using chitosan, users first combine the powder with vinegar and water, then heat and cool the mixture in a water bath. The slurry is then poured into a clay mould shaped like artificial nails. After about 48 hours, the thin film can be peeled off and trimmed to shape. The method for agar-based nails is slightly different, but similarly low-tech and accessible.

This tactile and modular approach allows the material to be fabricated at home or scaled for small-batch production — appealing to independent makers and sustainable fashion brands alike.

Beyond Beauty: Programmable Materials
Although Bio-e-Nails were developed in a cosmetic context, the underlying material system could be applied far more broadly. As Vasquez notes, this is not only about replacing synthetic materials with biodegradable ones — it’s about rethinking the entire design process, including how materials are programmed, transformed, and reused.

The project builds on earlier ATLAS Institute experiments exploring biodesign, modularity, and sensory-rich fabrication, such as bio-based bras, scent-emitting wearable materials, and biodegradable furniture.

For designers in fields like fashion, product, and packaging design, Bio-e-Nails offer an inspiring example of how functional aesthetics, circularity, and biomaterials can intersect in playful, accessible, and impactful ways.

Source: University of Colorado Boulder
Photos: Living Matter Lab