A concept jacket made from mycelium—the root-like network of fungi—offers a clear glimpse into the future of biofabricated materials. Vollebak developed this one-off piece as both a design object and a material experiment. The jacket uses cultivated fungal structures as an alternative to conventional leather. It shows how mycelium can become a high-performance, biobased material with applications across multiple design fields.

From Fungal Networks To Designed Materials

In nature, mycelium forms vast underground networks that recycle organic matter and support ecosystems. Designers now grow these same structures under controlled conditions to create materials. They cultivate mycelium into dense, interlocking sheets with adjustable properties.

By changing humidity, nutrients or temperature during growth, designers can influence flexibility, density, surface texture and strength. This approach allows them to shape material behaviour from the start, rather than modifying it afterwards. As a result, mycelium represents a shift from manufacturing to growing materials.

A Concept Jacket As Material Prototype

Vollebak translated this material research into a wearable prototype. The design references the classic A-2 flight jacket but adapts it to the behaviour of mycelium. Unlike traditional leather, mycelium performs better with fewer seams and smoother curves.

The designers chose not to heavily process the material. Instead, they kept the surface raw and matte, allowing the natural fibre structure and growth patterns to remain visible. This decision avoids the common approach of making alternatives imitate animal leather.

The jacket also highlights current challenges. Mycelium remains difficult to scale due to slow growth and inconsistent output. Many existing products rely on coatings or composites. This concept focuses on softness and material quality, using only a small number of carefully grown sheets.

From Mycotecture To Biofabrication

The use of mycelium in design builds on earlier experiments. In the 1990s, Phil Ross developed “mycotecture”, growing fungal networks into bricks, panels and furniture. He used agricultural waste as feedstock, allowing the mycelium to bind it into lightweight, biodegradable composites.

Today, companies such as MycoWorks refine this process. They control growth conditions more precisely and engineer the internal structure of the material. This results in more consistent and higher-performing sheets. The process combines renewable resources with relatively low energy input.

Beyond Fashion: Architecture And Space Applications

Mycelium applications extend beyond textiles. In architecture, designers explore it for insulation, panels and lightweight structures. Its thermal properties and low weight make it especially relevant for circular construction.

Researchers also investigate mycelium for space habitats. Organisations such as NASA study how fungal materials could grow on-site, reducing the need to transport heavy building materials. In these scenarios, mycelium could act as structure, insulation and even part of a closed-loop life support system.

Biobased Packaging And Digital Fabrication

To present the jacket, Vollebak collaborated with SAGA Space Architects on a custom display case. The team 3D printed the structure using polylactic acid (PLA), a biodegradable bioplastic made from corn starch. The form draws on organic patterns found in fungal growth.

The project combines biofabrication with digital production. It shows how different sustainable material strategies can work together within one design.

Towards Programmable Material Futures

Mycelium remains an emerging material, but it points towards a new design approach. Designers no longer only shape materials—they can guide how materials grow. As research develops, mycelium could scale across architecture, product design and fashion. Its ability to grow from waste streams and biodegrade at end of life makes it a strong candidate for circular design systems.

Source & photos: Vollebak