Researchers at Finland’s Aalto University have transformed timber salvaged from a 17th-century shipwreck into textile fibres, creating a seamless knitted dress that combines heritage, material innovation and circular design.

The project centres on the Hahtiperä shipwreck, a cargo vessel dating back to 1684. Workers discovered the wreck beneath a parking area in Oulu, Finland, in 2019. Because only part of the vessel could be preserved, maritime archaeologist Minna Koivikko collaborated with Aalto University researchers to explore alternative uses for the remaining timber.

Koivikko described the project as a way to give the recovered wood a “meaningful second life”. In addition, the team wanted to bring underwater cultural heritage into everyday life through contemporary design.

Converting Salvaged Wood into Cellulose Fibre

The multidisciplinary team included specialists in textile design, chemistry and forestry. First, the researchers cleaned the centuries-old timber and removed contaminants that had accumulated underwater over hundreds of years. They then shredded the wood and processed it into a cellulose-rich pulp.

According to scientist Inge Schlapp-Hackl, the recovered material proved surprisingly easy to process because it contained very few impurities. The team subsequently converted the pulp into fibres using Ioncell technology, which Aalto University researchers developed in 2013.

Ioncell technology uses a non-toxic ionic liquid solvent to dissolve cellulose into a spinnable solution. As a result, the process offers a more sustainable alternative to conventional textile production methods that rely on harmful chemicals. The resulting fibres reportedly have a silky texture and greater strength than cotton.

Zero-Waste Garment Production

Knitwear designer Anna-Mari Leppisaari used the yarn to create two identical sleeveless maxi dresses with an industrial knitting machine. Importantly, the garments were produced as seamless pieces, helping to minimise material waste during manufacturing.

The dresses retain the timber’s natural brown tone and subtle sheen because the fibres remained undyed and unbleached. Furthermore, the garments feature abstract patterns inspired by wood grain and digital noise. Researcher Severi Uusitalo developed the AI-generated pattern technology used in the designs.

Circular Potential for Future Material Applications

Beyond fashion, the project demonstrates how reclaimed cellulose-rich resources can become high-performance fibres for textiles, interiors and product applications. Moreover, it highlights the growing potential of circular material systems that combine waste reduction, heritage preservation and bio-based innovation.

The dresses are currently on display in the exhibition Tomorrow’s Wardrobe at the Oulu Art Museum.

Source: Dezeen
Photos: Aalto University