Woven 3D texture merged with pattern.

Surface Synergy is an innovative woven project by textile designer Johanna Samuelsson. Shrinking is used to transform the flat textile surface into a texturised one. At the same time as the pattern is created in the loom, also the texture is formed. Or rather, there is an interwoven ability for shrinking; this action of transformation is planned at the same time as the rest of the weave. But as long hold in the loom, the fabric is under tension and little shrinking can occur. First after cutting down and steaming, the final result of the shrinking can be seen.

By the technique of digital jacquard weaving, this project explores the synergy between 3D texture and pattern, where they together function both as construction of texture and decoration of surface. Instead of seeing texture and pattern as separated, both of these notions are embedded in the same process of creating the woven textile. This work proposes on-loom effects requiring minimal finishing processes. Woven patterns, such as plaid and houndstooth, are updated by merging with texture. The interrelation between texture and pattern, transformed by shrinking, twists with traditional patterns and weaving: creating expressions that have the ambition to evoke the viewer by surprise.

Material: Elastane, lurex, cotton, polyester. Surface Synergy is a MA degree project in textile design by Johanna Samuelsson at The Swedish School of Textiles in 2016, with founding from TEKO.