A prototype shoe made entirely from pure mycelium will debut at Milan Design Week, marking a major step in bio-based material innovation. The project brings together VUB researcher and designer Lars Dittrich and master shoemaker Marie De Ryck from La Monnaie/De Munt. It shows how living materials can move beyond experimentation and into functional design.

From Surface Material To Structural Application

Mycelium, the root network of fungi, is widely explored as a sustainable alternative to leather and plastics. However, most uses remain limited to coatings or composites. This project takes a different approach. It uses pure mycelium as a structural material.

The sole, for instance, consists entirely of bonded mycelium sheets. As a result, it can bear loads without added reinforcement. This development supports the shift towards mono-material products. In turn, such products are easier to recycle or compost, which strengthens circular design strategies.

Engineering A Living Material

The team developed the shoe over two years. During this time, they balanced natural growth with technical performance. One key challenge involved shaping flat-grown mycelium into a three-dimensional form.

To solve this, Dittrich selected two fungal strains with different properties. One strain creates a foam-like material for the sole. Meanwhile, the other produces a flexible, leather-like sheet for the upper. Consequently, the design meets multiple functional needs without synthetic inputs.

Bridging Craft And Biotechnology

At the same time, the project connects traditional craftsmanship with advanced biotechnology. The team adapted classic shoemaking techniques to suit the behaviour of mycelium. For example, they reinterpreted sole lamination methods.

The final design highlights the material’s natural qualities. Visible layers and seams reveal how the shoe is constructed. Moreover, they emphasise the organic nature of the material. This approach allows design to act as a bridge between research and making.

Showcasing Biobased Design At Dropcity

The prototype will be shown at Dropcity during Milan Design Week, a centre for architecture and design. The exhibition recreates a laboratory setting. Therefore, visitors can explore how the material grows and transforms into a product.

In addition, Dittrich will host workshops and lectures. These sessions will focus on cultivating bio-based materials and integrating them into design practice. As interest in sustainable materials grows, this project highlights mycelium’s potential across product, fashion and interior design.

Source: Vrije Universiteit Brussel (VUB)
Photos: Pieter Claes / Lars Dittrich