Jacquard Lancé-Découpé

Lancé-Découpé / Fil Coupé literally means “cut threads” in French. This weaving technique produces a delicate, yet tactile fringe effect on the surface of the fabric. Though it resembles some sort of embroidery, it is actually a jacquard weave, meaning the pattern is woven into the ground cloth. On the backside of the fabric, extra weft yarns are floated between designs. It is basically woven upside down.

Once the fabric is woven, the float yarns are clipped, and the excess is discarded. To get the little fringes to stick up on the face of the cloth, the yarns are suctioned with a vacuum-like machine to bring the clipped yarns from the back to the face of the fabric.