LUBUGO – Ugandan Barkcloth

Lubugo is a traditional barkcloth from Uganda, made from the inner bark of the Mutuba tree (Ficus natalensis). The craft dates back around 700 years and is closely connected to the Buganda Kingdom. Ugandan barkcloth making is recognised by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage.

The process begins by climbing the Mutuba tree and making a circular cut in the trunk with a traditional knife. The bark is carefully peeled away in one large sheet without cutting down the tree. Afterwards, the exposed trunk is wrapped in banana leaves for protection. Within approximately one year, the bark grows back, and a single tree can be harvested repeatedly for decades.

The fresh bark is rolled and boiled in water for around 30 minutes, which softens the fibres and removes sap without chemicals. It is then laid across a wooden beam and beaten for four to six hours with a grooved wooden mallet called an ensambe. This work is carried out by women in Masaka. Through repeated beating, the bark can expand to around five times its original size, gradually becoming thin, soft, strong and leather-like.

The cloth is then pegged to the ground and dried in the sun for one or two days, developing its characteristic terracotta-brown colour. Finally, it is lightly smoked to help protect it against insects and rubbed with natural shea butter to make the surface supple.

Each sheet has its own natural veining and can be used for products including bags, lampshades, wall panels and decorative objects. Historically, Lubugo was used to clothe Buganda kings and played a role in ceremonies surrounding birth and burial. Today, the material is being introduced into contemporary interiors and slow fashion under the description ‘Nature’s Laminate’.